Wagyu, a term that translates to “Japanese cow,” has captivated the world with its exceptional quality and luxurious taste. This remarkable journey began in the early 1900s following the Meiji Restoration, transforming from a forbidden protein to a globally sought-after culinary treasure.
The Essence of Wagyu: From Breeds to Brands
While there are four recognized “wa-gyu” breeds— Japanese Black, Brown, Polled, and Shorthorn— some regional variations have garnered international acclaim. Kobe beef, hailing from Hyogo Prefecture, stands as a prime example. This black cow breed (kuroge), known for its intense marbling, is notoriously scarce outside of Japan.
“Kobe-gyu must adhere to stringent standards, with only a small percentage earning certification,” explains Haruyuki Yamashita, executive chef and owner of Hal Yamashita Tokyo and Syun at Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore. “Not all wagyu produced in Kobe can be sold as Kobe-gyu.”
The Kansai region boasts Japan’s top three wagyu brands: Kobe, Matsusaka, and Ohmi. Yet, Yamashita emphasizes that not all wagyu is created equal. The increasing demand for high-quality wagyu in markets like China has led to Kobe beef being dubbed “maboroshi no niku,” or “dream meat.”
The Influence of Geography and Breeding
The geographic origins play a crucial role in shaping the quality of wagyu. Hyogo’s favorable climate, weather, and water conditions create an ideal environment for cattle breeding. The local authorities are dedicated to upholding the quality and authenticity of Kobe beef. Each cut of Tajima beef is meticulously traced through a 10-digit identification number, guaranteeing its lineage.
The marbling index is a key factor in determining the quality of Kobe beef, requiring a minimum score of six. This meticulous attention to quality is reflected in the hefty price tag, which can reach 10 million yen (S$122,000) for a single animal. “While prices can inflate along the distribution chain,” Yamashita acknowledges, “at auction, the price is justified by the quality.”
Beyond Marbling: Seeking a Deeper Flavor
While marbling and fat content are often celebrated in wagyu, chefs and consumers are increasingly seeking deeper, more nuanced flavors. Hirohashi Nobuaki, chef-owner of Ushidoki Wagyu Kaiseki, highlights the distinction between traditional grading systems and individual farmer branding.
Nobuaki shares the story of Muneharu Ozaki, a Miyazaki farmer who defies conventional practices by raising his wagyu to a more mature age—around 34 months—instead of the customary 28 months. This practice yields richer, more savory flavors due to the extended maturation process. Ozaki’s cattle are also raised without antibiotics or growth hormones, further emphasizing a focus on natural flavor over excessive marbling.
The Art of Aging: A Journey of Flavor Transformation
Aging further enhances the complex flavors of wagyu. Dry-aging is a common technique, with restaurants like Yen Yakiniku and Fat Cow offering aged Hida Hime and Nagasaki wagyu, respectively.
Uoshoku Meat in Niigata Prefecture utilizes a unique method known as yukimuro, or “snow aging.” The beef is aged in a snow-covered room at a consistent temperature range between 0 and 5 degrees Celsius for 30 days. This process results in extraordinary tenderness, rich marbling, and a pronounced umami flavor.
Finding the Perfect Wagyu: A Personal Journey
Ultimately, the perfect wagyu is a matter of personal taste and dining philosophy. Chef Remy Lefebvre of Casa Restaurant, a woodfire-focused establishment, emphasizes the importance of respectfully sourced and healthy produce.
“The best wagyu for me is from Saga,” Lefebvre states. “We spent over a year tasting and comparing different meats to find the one that best suits our vision. We ultimately chose Altair, a free-range, cross-bred wagyu from Tasmania, Australia, known for its exceptional marbling.”
Wagyu, in its diverse expressions, continues to captivate the world with its luxurious qualities and evolving flavors. From the meticulously bred Kobe beef to the more mature and naturally raised wagyu of Ozaki, there’s a world of wagyu waiting to be discovered.
