It’s a bold statement, but compared to how Uyeda thinks about the art of bartending, it’s true. He believes his approach to cocktail-making is rooted in the Japanese tea ceremony. It is an “adoration of the beautiful among the sordid facts of everyday existence. It inculcates purity and harmony, the mystery of mutual charity, the romanticism of the social order.” This philosophy perfectly reflects the atmosphere in his elegant little bar, where white-jacketed bartenders meticulously craft perfect drinks, while stylish patrons enjoy quiet conversations over cocktails with names like M-30 Rain and Tokio.
This unique approach to bartending creates a captivating atmosphere. The bar’s elegance, combined with the careful attention to detail in the preparation of the drinks, elevates the experience beyond just consuming a beverage. It becomes a ritual, an appreciation for the finer things in life, nestled amidst the bustling reality of everyday existence.
A Legacy of the Hard Shake
I learned about Uyeda through the online writings of Stanislav Vadrna, a Slovakian bartender who apprenticed under him. Vadrna teaches classes in Japanese bartending and has become a missionary of sorts, preaching the gospel of the “hard shake,” Uyeda’s signature technique. This technique, it is claimed, produces a drink a full ten degrees colder than a standard shake.
Vadrna’s dedication to spreading Uyeda’s techniques highlights the respect and influence this unique approach to bartending has garnered. The “hard shake” is not just a technique; it’s a philosophy, a commitment to excellence that transcends simple cocktail making. It represents a pursuit of perfection, a desire to create a truly unique drinking experience.
The Precision of a “Hard Shake”
To witness the hard shake in action, I order a gimlet. The precision is evident from the start. Uyeda lines up the bottles on the bar, labels facing the customer, and with a single, swift twist, he opens them and fills the shaker. He then shakes the shaker in a rapid-fire serpentine fashion that decelerates to a slow trot and then a standstill.
The act of making a cocktail becomes a dance, a carefully orchestrated sequence of movements. The precision with which each step is executed showcases the bartender’s mastery and dedication to the craft. Every detail, from the placement of the bottles to the speed and rhythm of the shake, is meticulously considered, contributing to the final product.
“The gin is broken out,” Uyeda says, “then comes back together, smoother, softer.” The drink is indeed a revelation. The abundance of fine ice shards cools the cocktail to the desired temperature, while the lime’s acidity and the gin’s alcohol mellow, creating a smooth and harmonious blend.
The coolness of the drink, achieved through the hard shake, is a testament to the bartender’s commitment to delivering a superior drinking experience. It’s not just about creating a delicious cocktail but about creating a sensory experience, a perfect balance of taste, temperature, and texture.
An Evening of Unique Experiences
Outside, Tokyo is in full swing, the streets teeming with students and salarymen. Two geishas gently assist a drunken patron into a taxi, while the driver patiently waits, seemingly unfazed by the pristine white lace doilies in the backseat. We turn off onto a side street, into an office building, and head two stories underground to Little Smith.
The vibrant energy of Tokyo provides a stark contrast to the calm, almost serene atmosphere within the bars. While the city pulsates with life, the bars offer a haven of tranquility, a space for relaxation and indulgence. This dynamic interplay between the city’s energy and the bars’ serenity adds another layer of intrigue to the experience.
At Little Smith, more white-jacketed bartenders stand behind a striking oval-shape, hand-hewn wooden bar. I say “omakase” to one, who smiles instantly. This phrase, usually spoken to sushi chefs when you want them to devise a special tasting menu, means “I trust you.” He instantly earns my trust by muddling Ukrainian chile-pepper vodka and a whole cooked tomato into an artisanal Bloody Mary.
The trust and respect between the bartender and the customer are palpable. The “omakase” approach, inviting the bartender to craft a unique experience, speaks volumes about the confidence placed in their expertise. The resulting Bloody Mary, a creative twist on a classic, exemplifies the bartender’s skill and willingness to push boundaries.
Beyond the Ordinary: Star Bar Ginza
Then it’s on to Star Bar Ginza, where I have seven of the best drinks of my trip. Hidetsugu Ueno, the head bartender, is so obsessive about his craft that he even makes his own bar snacks. He cures his own Japanese version of Spanish-style jamón in the mountains of the Akita Prefecture because he finds the traditional stuff too salty to serve with single malt Scotch.
This dedication to quality extends beyond the cocktails to every aspect of the experience. Ueno’s meticulous approach to bar snacks, a crucial element of the overall enjoyment, speaks to his commitment to creating a cohesive and harmonious experience. The fact that he goes to such lengths to source and prepare the perfect accompaniment to his cocktails underscores his unwavering passion for his craft.
Ueno’s care with the bar snacks is just the beginning. When he stirs a Martini, he uses a combination of chilled and room-temperature gin to achieve the proper viscosity. He shakes certain cocktails in a soft-sided plastic container to keep the ice from chipping too much.
Ueno’s methods for preparing each drink are tailored to the specific ingredients and desired effects. He understands that even seemingly minor details can impact the final outcome, and he refuses to compromise. This attention to detail elevates his creations beyond mere cocktails, transforming them into intricate and balanced compositions.
His ever-evolving drink menu is beyond seasonal: In winter it might be Champagne mixed with pomelo, but only during that citrus fruit’s fleeting two-week season. In summer, rum is paired with ripe Okinawa mango.
Ueno’s approach to cocktail creation is not just about innovation; it’s about embracing the fleeting beauty of nature’s offerings. He recognizes that each ingredient has its own unique qualities, and he seeks to capture their essence at their peak. This respect for the natural world adds a depth and complexity to his creations.
This journey through Tokyo’s bars reveals a world where bartending is an art form, a meticulous craft driven by passion and a relentless pursuit of perfection. From Uyeda’s “hard shake” to Ueno’s artisanal bar snacks, each bartender demonstrates a commitment to creating a unique and unforgettable experience for their patrons. It is in these intimate spaces, amidst the bustling city, that the true spirit of Japanese bartending shines through.
