Okinawa, with its breathtaking aquamarine waters, pristine white-sand beaches, and abundant marine life, beckons travelers from all corners of the globe. This tropical paradise, located in southern Japan, has seen a surge in tourism, surpassing even Hawaii in recent years.
The island’s allure has attracted not only casual vacationers but also seasoned travelers seeking luxurious experiences. Luxury hotels like the Ritz-Carlton and Hoshinoya have sprung up across the prefecture, catering to discerning guests. For decades, scuba diving enthusiasts have been drawn to Okinawa’s vibrant coral reefs and diverse marine life.
While the beauty of Okinawa’s clear blue waters and expansive skies is undeniable, my personal experience with the islands was somewhat marred by the threat of typhoons. Typhoons are a frequent occurrence during the summer months in Okinawa, and my recent trip coincided with one of the most powerful storms in recent memory.
A Typhoon-Stricken Welcome
My visit to Okinawa’s main island, known as “honto,” coincided with a massive typhoon. Despite arriving during the supposed end of the rainy season, we were greeted by grey skies, heavy downpours, and a gloomy atmosphere. The idyllic tropical paradise we had envisioned was nowhere to be found.
Determined to make the most of our trip, we ventured to a pottery village, Yomitan Pottery Village, on our way to our hotel, The Busena Terrace. While we were glad to escape the urban bustle of Naha, the journey to Yomitan revealed a different side of Okinawa.
The road was lined with poorly maintained homes and rundown businesses, a stark contrast to the idealized image of Okinawa as a tropical paradise. Our journey was further interrupted by the sight of Kadena Air Base, one of the many US military bases scattered across the islands. The presence of the US military is a stark reality in Okinawa, with almost 70% of the US military personnel stationed in Japan located on the islands.
Yomitan Pottery Village: A Touch of Artistic Charm
Despite the unexpected sights along the way, Yomitan Pottery Village, located just north of Kadena, offered a welcome respite. This charming village is home to over 45 ceramic artists who showcase their unique creations in their single-story workshops, nestled amidst lush tropical greenery.
Okinawa pottery is known for its robust construction, bold designs in ultramarine, turquoise, and amber, and simple motifs, particularly fish. While the pottery is undeniably beautiful, the heavy pieces, in my opinion, make them less practical for everyday use. However, visiting Yomitan is an interesting detour on the journey to the west coast.
The Busena Terrace: A Tropical Oasis
From Yomitan, we quickly reached The Busena Terrace, a sprawling resort complex on the western coast. The hotel’s lobby was bustling with guests, primarily young families, seeking refuge from the stormy weather outside.
The Busena Terrace exudes a tropical vibe, with vibrant hibiscus and bird-of-paradise flowers blooming amongst palm trees. The resort boasts numerous restaurants, two large outdoor pools, an indoor pool, a thalassotherapy spa, and a private beach, offering a wide range of amenities for a relaxing getaway.
The Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium: Underwater Wonders
The following day, we decided to visit the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, one of the largest aquariums in the world. The aquarium is renowned for its impressive collection of marine life.
The aquarium takes pride in its success in breeding whale sharks in captivity, some reaching lengths of up to 8.7 meters. The main tank, home to three whale sharks, manta rays, and a kaleidoscope of other sea creatures, is a staggering 8.2 meters tall.
A Glimpse of Pristine Beaches
Fortunately, the weather improved significantly on the third day, allowing us to finally experience the pristine beach in front of our hotel. The mesmerizing blue-green hues of the ocean, the clear sky, and the sparkling sunlight dancing on the water took our breath away.
Exploring Naha: A Taste of Okinawa’s Cuisine
On our last day, we left the resort and headed south to Naha, making a stop at Manzamo to admire the stunning view of the coral cliffs. While we didn’t have time to explore Naha in depth, we enjoyed dinner at Tantei, a humble restaurant serving authentic Okinawan cuisine.
Okinawa’s cuisine, distinct from the rest of Japan, features unique ingredients like peanuts, goya, a type of bitter gourd, goat meat, and various pig parts. Tantei, despite its unassuming appearance, provided us with a delightful culinary experience.
Our visit to Tantei revealed a fascinating story about its origins. The owner of Tantei in Naha told us that he had been approached by the owners of a Tokyo restaurant with the same name, which served Okinawan kaisei, a form of formal Japanese multi-course cuisine.
The Naha owner eventually only sold the rights to use the name, emphasizing that the cuisine served in the Tokyo restaurant, prepared by a chef from Kyoto, is nothing like his authentic Okinawan dishes.
A Farewell to Okinawa
As we departed from Naha, another typhoon approached, prompting us to feel a pang of sympathy for arriving vacationers. Despite the challenging weather, we were fortunate to experience a few days of this stunning southern paradise, leaving with a newfound appreciation for Okinawa’s unique beauty and culture.
