Enoshima Island, a charming escape just a short train ride from Tokyo, promises a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural immersion, and unexpected surprises. Our first day in Tokyo, with the sun blazing, our son Oscar, a Tokyo resident, suggested a day trip to Enoshima.
A Journey to Enoshima
We began our adventure at Shinagawa Station, just a stone’s throw from our hotel. After a short train ride to Fukisawa Station, we hopped onto the Odakyu Enoshima Line. The journey, a little over an hour, was a pleasant introduction to Japanese efficiency and picturesque landscapes.
Upon reaching Enoshima, we crossed a bridge connecting the mainland to the island. We were greeted by soaring Enoshima Island hawks, known for their daring food-stealing antics. Oscar, a previous victim of their thievery, shared a cautionary tale of his enchilada being snatched right from his hand. Picnicers beware!
A Stroll Through Charming Streets and Ancient Shrines
Beyond the bridge, we found ourselves in a delightful street lined with quaint shops showcasing exquisite souvenirs. From beautifully crafted fans and intricate chopsticks to hand-made sweets and an abundance of cat-themed merchandise, the street was a feast for the senses. Enoshima, we learned, is home to many stray cats, cared for by locals and visitors.
Our next stop was the Enoshima Shrine, a tranquil oasis nestled within lush gardens. To reach the shrine, we climbed a steep hill, shaded by towering trees, offering respite from the heat. The shrine, dedicated to Benten, the Shinto goddess of wealth, music, and knowledge, is comprised of three separate temples.
A sense of serenity enveloped us as we approached the temple. Oscar patiently guided me through the traditional purification ritual, starting with rinsing my hands and mouth before making an offering. The ritual, performed with reverence, involved bowing, tossing a coin into a collection box, clapping twice, and bowing once more. Oscar explained that these rituals are deeply ingrained in Japanese culture, practiced by people of all backgrounds.
A Breathtaking View from the Sea Candle
Ascending the hill, we entered the Samuel Cocking Garden, a charming botanical haven established by a British trader in the late 19th century. From there, we embarked on a climb to the Sea Candle, a working lighthouse with stunning observation decks.
The wind whipped fiercely on the open deck, giving us a glimpse of the harsh winter conditions. The view was breathtaking, encompassing the surrounding land and sea. On a clear day, Mount Fuji is visible, but today, the haze obscured its majestic peak.
A Romantic Shrine and a Delicious Lunch
Following our ascent, we ventured to a small shrine where young couples sought blessings and sealed their love with a romantic ‘Love’ bell. The couple’s names were inscribed on locks, adding to the shrine’s charm.
We then indulged in a delightful lunch with a view, taking a table outside one of the many restaurants that dotted the hill. The wind was strong, but the panoramic vista of the sea made it all worthwhile. David savored Shirasu fish, tiny fish caught in abundance around Enoshima, served half raw and half cooked over white rice.
Ancient Caves and Mystical Stories
Our final stop was the Iwaya Caves, impressive formations carved by the sea on the southern part of the island. These caves are said to be the dwelling of a dragon who once terrorized the locals until he was subdued by the Goddess Benten. Their union, however, came with the condition that the dragon mend his evil ways.
The Iwaya Caves, a shrine since 552, are adorned with ancient stone carvings. Upon entering, we were given a candle to illuminate the cave’s mystical atmosphere. As we ventured deeper, the tunnel narrowed, forcing us to stoop. Emerging from the cave, we were invigorated by the refreshing sea breeze.
A Dip in the Onsen: An Unforgettable Experience
After our cave exploration, we descended to the rocks below, admiring the rock pools and observing the local fishermen, known to frequent the spot.
We concluded our day at the Enoshima Onsen, a sophisticated hot spring complex. Oscar informed us that Onsen are ubiquitous throughout Japan. The Enoshima Onsen features several floors, including a ‘mixed bathing floor’ where men and women bath together while wearing swimwear.
We spent some time enjoying the various pools, each with a different temperature. The outdoor pool, offering magnificent views of the bay, was my favorite. Following a staff announcement, we ventured to the sauna on the floor below. The sauna was carved out of the rock, creating a unique ‘cave’ atmosphere.
There, we participated in the ‘Aufguss’ ritual, a German tradition. An ‘Aufgussmeister,’ a tiny but surprisingly powerful woman, added essential oils to water and then used a towel to direct the steam towards us. The ‘Aufguss’ was an intense experience, the heat building rapidly. The intense heat had me rushing for the door, thankfully, a freezing plunge pool awaited outside, providing instant relief.
After the ‘Aufguss’, we separated, venturing to the single-sex bathhouse. While I felt slightly out of my comfort zone, Oscar had prepped me on the etiquette of the Onsen. Despite following his instructions, I made a faux pas by allowing my hair to touch the water. Other bathers kept their hair dry, using folded towels.
Beyond this minor misstep, I managed to navigate the experience well, diligently washing myself down with soap and water at the slightest hint of sweat. I emerged feeling cleaner than ever.
A Farewell to Enoshima
Meeting back up with David and Oscar, we returned to Tokyo, stopping to pick up a refreshing mango and coconut juice. The unexpected addition of black tapioca lumps served as a final reminder of the unique and surprising delights that Japan has to offer. Enoshima, our first foray into the heart of Japanese culture, left an indelible mark, promising countless more adventures to come.
