Welcome to Fukagawa, a vibrant district in Tokyo that boasts a fascinating history and delectable cuisine. Nestled in the western part of Koto Ward, this charming area is known for its laid-back ambiance and historical significance. Fukagawa was once a bustling port town where renowned figures like Matsuo Basho and Ino Tadataka resided, leaving their mark on this thriving community.
Today, Fukagawa is a tapestry woven with stories from the past. It was once a vast expanse of ocean, but during the Edo period (1603–1868), it transformed into a hub of activity. Fukagawa served as a sanctuary for temples, a thriving timber yard with numerous lumber businesses, a vital warehouse center, and a bustling fishing town. This vibrant community thrived on the hard work of its people, who contributed to Edo’s (present-day Tokyo) success.
One of the most beloved culinary treasures of Fukagawa is Fukagawa Meshi, a dish that sustained the hardworking laborers of the past. This dish, originally a simple yet satisfying meal of fresh clams stewed in miso and chopped green onions, served over hot rice, has evolved over time. While many associate Fukagawa Meshi with the clam-filled rice dishes found in train station bento boxes, its origins are rooted in a much simpler and more authentic preparation.
A Taste of the Past: The History of Fukagawa Meshi
Maki Nittoji, the second-generation owner of the renowned Fukagawajuku restaurant, sheds light on the origins of this iconic dish. She explains that clams were plentiful in Fukagawa, and the local fishermen would often serve their catches fresh, simmered in miso over room-temperature rice. This quick and flavorful meal was a staple for busy workers who didn’t have the luxury of warm rice cookers.
The dish was traditionally seasoned with miso rather than soy sauce because soy sauce was considered a luxury back then. Clams, rich in nutrients like taurine, iron, and zinc, were an ideal food source for the hardworking laborers of Fukagawa.
As soy sauce became more readily available during the Meiji period (1868–1912), Fukagawa Meshi adapted to the changing times. It was transformed into a more portable dish, suitable for workers like carpenters who needed to transport their meals. The dish, once a common sight at food stands and small eateries, became a cherished part of Fukagawa’s culinary heritage.
Revival and Innovation: Fukagawa Meshi Today
Unfortunately, the fishing industry in Fukagawa faced a decline in the 1950s due to water pollution and land reclamation. As the sea receded, so did the opportunity to enjoy the flavors of Fukagawa Meshi.
However, Takami Nittoji, Maki’s father and the founder of Fukagawajuku, embarked on a mission to revive the town’s beloved cuisine. Driven by his passion for Fukagawa’s culinary heritage and his entrepreneurial spirit, he decided to open a restaurant that would showcase the unique flavors of Fukagawa Meshi.
Takami opened Fukagawajuku in 1987, transforming a former bar and restaurant into a stylish establishment with a touch of Edo elegance. He used reclaimed timber from an Edo-era house to create the restaurant’s signboard, tables, and other furnishings. The restaurant quickly became a popular destination, drawing in locals and tourists alike.
Modern Interpretations: Preserving Tradition with Innovation
Fukagawajuku offers two distinct variations of Fukagawa Meshi: the traditional “bukkake” style, served over rice with a steaming clam miso sauce, and the “Hamamatsu-style” where the clams are cooked directly in the rice. The restaurant also offers a “Tatsumi Gonomi” that combines both styles in smaller portions, a tribute to the Tatsumi geisha who were known to enjoy both versions of the dish.
Maki and her family have carefully preserved the essence of Fukagawa Meshi while incorporating modern techniques. The restaurant uses a secret blend of red and white miso, created by Maki’s mother, to provide a comforting and flavorful base for the dish. The clams are sourced from a trusted shellfish shop in Urayasu, ensuring their freshness and quality.
Sharing the Legacy: Spreading the Love for Fukagawa Meshi
Today, Fukagawa Meshi is no longer limited to specialty restaurants. It has found its way into the menus of soba noodle shops, Chinese restaurants, and izakayas, spreading its unique flavors far and wide. The dish has captured the hearts of many, from young couples to seniors, and even tourists from around the globe.
Maki, driven by her deep affection for her hometown, is dedicated to sharing the history and culture of Fukagawa Meshi with future generations. She actively participates in events like the Koto-ku Festival and the Tokyo Marathon, showcasing the dish and its rich history. She also plans to teach children about the dish in schools, ensuring that the legacy of Fukagawa Meshi will live on.
The revival of Fukagawa Meshi is a testament to the enduring spirit of Fukagawa. Through the dedication of passionate individuals like Maki and her family, this cherished culinary tradition continues to thrive, offering a glimpse into the history and charm of this vibrant district. As you savor the unique flavors of Fukagawa Meshi, remember that you are not only enjoying a delicious meal but also experiencing a piece of history and culture that has been passed down through generations.
