Den in Jimbocho is a restaurant that has captured the hearts and taste buds of foodies everywhere. I couldn’t resist the allure and decided to experience it for myself. I had heard whispers of Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa’s exceptional talent and friendly nature. However, I was warned that reading about his creations might spoil the surprise, so I kept my curiosity in check, knowing that the ever-changing menu would offer something truly unique.
A Whimsical Entrance
Upon arriving at Den, I was immediately captivated by the moss-covered sign adorned with a blue shovel. It was an unexpected and charming touch that piqued my interest. At first glance, the backlit wall showcasing beautiful pottery led me to believe I had stumbled into a ceramics shop. I turned to leave, but then I realized this was indeed the restaurant’s entrance.
The colorful painting, a vibrant work of art by a friend of the chef, welcomed me into this whimsical space. It was a sneak peek into the artistic vision that awaited me. The ceramics on display, crafted by potters from across Japan, were also a testament to the chef’s close-knit connections with local artists. I couldn’t help but hope that these exquisite pieces would play a part in my culinary adventure.
A Feast for the Senses
As I took my seat, I was presented with a delightful selection of colorful tenugui, traditional Japanese hand towels, to use as lap napkins. I chose a vibrant pink and white tenugui with a captivating dragon design. Chef Hasegawa shared that the artist who created these tenugui also designs summer kimono and yukata, showcasing her talent for both intricate textiles and fashion.
Chef’s wife, a kikizaké-shi, or saké sommelier, offered to pair each course with a different saké. To start the evening, she presented a dry Berlucci’s Cuvée ’61 Franciacorta sparkling wine, crafted in the Méthode Champenoise style with a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.
The first bite was an explosion of flavor and texture, artfully presented in monaka, delicate rice wafers. These usually accompany sweet azuki beans, but here Chef Hasegawa showcased his playful ingenuity. Foie gras, marinated for ten days in white miso, creating a harmonious balance of umami and amami, was nestled within the monaka. This savory treasure was further enhanced by the subtle sweetness of hoshigaki (dried persimmons) and the tangy kick of iburigakko, smoked and pickled daikon. It was a brilliant introduction to the chef’s unique culinary perspective.
The accompanying saké, Tedorigawa Junmai Daiginjo from Ishikawa prefecture, was a house blend exclusive to Den. Its soft, delicate character was the perfect complement to the complex flavors of the first course.
A Culinary Journey Through Japan
The next dish, presented with a playful touch, was a testament to Chef Hasegawa’s playful approach. A frog peeked out from junsai, a type of water lily renowned for its delicate mucous membrane. Chef Hasegawa explained that the junsai had been foraged that morning from a lake in Hyogo prefecture. The frog and junsai were nestled on a lotus root leaf, evoking the tranquility of a summer day.
Chef instructed us to fold the edges of the leaf, creating a pocket to contain the junsai and frog. Inside the bowl, we discovered tokoroten, strings of jelly made with tomato juice and tengusa seaweed, layered with basil seeds, passion fruit, and tobiko (flying fish roe). This unexpected combination added a delightful textural contrast to the junsai and tokoroten.
The water, sourced from a saké brewery in Niigata, Kirian Yamamizu, was served in a unique glass, crafted by an artist in Hokkaido.
The saké for this course, Banshu Ikkon’s Sunflower from Hyogo prefecture, was a light, dry summer saké, perfect for the warm weather. The saké glass, also designed by the Hokkaido artist, featured pastel dots, adding a touch of whimsy to the experience.
Laughter, Surprise, and Unexpected Delights
As the meal continued, Chef Hasegawa kept us entertained with his playful presentation. The next dish arrived in a familiar red and white bucket, evoking a sense of playful nostalgia. But upon closer inspection, it wasn’t KFC, but DFC (Den Fried Chicken). Chef Hasegawa, dressed in a “Colonel Sanders”-inspired attire, presented us with a chicken wing stuffed with turmeric-seasoned sticky rice, almonds, and raisins. The combination was a delightful surprise, perfectly balanced and incredibly satisfying. The dish was served on a bed of Ontaiyaki, a traditional confection from Oita prefecture, adding a touch of regional charm to the experience.
A Culinary Masterpiece
Chef Hasegawa’s culinary artistry is more than just about creating delicious food; it’s about creating an immersive experience that celebrates the beauty and creativity of Japan. His passion for local ingredients, his playful presentation, and his dedication to creating a unique dining experience are truly remarkable. Every dish at Den is a testament to his talent, his passion, and his dedication to pushing culinary boundaries.
Den is much more than just a restaurant; it’s a testament to the creativity of Chef Hasegawa, a celebration of Japanese artistry, and an unforgettable culinary journey.
Den: A New Location
Den has moved to a NEW LOCATION. For details, please visit [website link].
