Stepping into Roanne train station, time seems to stand still. A sense of calm pervades the air, punctuated only by the occasional high-speed train speeding towards Lyon or Clermont-Ferrand. It’s hard to believe that this seemingly ordinary station in eastern France was once the beating heart of French gastronomy. The renowned restaurant, La Maison Troisgros, was so celebrated that the station itself was known as “the station in front of La Maison Troisgros.” Though the restaurant no longer occupies its original location, its legacy endures.
The Troisgros family’s culinary journey began almost a century ago. Jean-Baptiste and Marie Troisgros took over L’Hôtel des Platanes in Roanne, renaming it L’Hôtel Moderne and opening a small restaurant that would evolve into the legendary Maison Troisgros. Their sons, Jean and Pierre, carried the torch, revolutionizing French cuisine and earning the title of “the best restaurant in the world” in 1968 by the Gault & Millau guide. Their innovative style, dubbed “nouvelle cuisine,” emphasized fresh ingredients and lighter flavors, influencing a generation of renowned chefs.
A New Chapter: Le Bois sans Feuilles
In 2017, Maison Troisgros embarked on a new chapter, relocating to a converted farmhouse in Ouches, a charming village five miles from Roanne. The new restaurant, Le Bois sans Feuilles, stands out with its modern design, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that offer breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. This shift to a serene rural setting marked a departure from the bustling atmosphere of Roanne’s train station.
The family’s dedication to culinary excellence continues at Le Bois sans Feuilles. The open-plan kitchen, under the watchful eye of the fourth generation of Troisgros chefs, creates intricate, three-Michelin-starred dishes. Michel, son of Pierre, remains deeply involved in the kitchen, along with Marie-Pierre, the pillar of the family business. Their son, César, the current executive chef, channels his passion for food into crafting a new cuisine that reflects the tranquil surroundings of Ouches.
A Family’s Unwavering Passion
The Troisgros family’s story is a testament to the power of tradition, innovation, and unwavering passion. César embraces his heritage while forging his own culinary path. He recognizes that the environment has inspired him to create dishes that are increasingly pure and simple. Michel, ever the perfectionist, constantly questions and refines his work, drawing inspiration from his family’s rich history. His culinary journey began with the simple flavors of his Italian grandmother’s cooking, which instilled in him a deep appreciation for the essence of food.
The Troisgros family’s dedication to excellence extends beyond their restaurant. They have expanded their culinary empire, opening several ventures in France and internationally, bringing their signature style to new audiences. Each venture, from the charming Le Central café deli to the elegant La Table du Lancaster, reflects their commitment to creating unforgettable culinary experiences.
A Culinary Masterpiece: Saumon à l’oseille
The Troisgros family’s journey has been marked by extraordinary dishes, but none more iconic than Saumon à l’oseille, the dish that epitomized nouvelle cuisine. Born from a serendipitous moment in Marie Troisgros’ garden, this simple yet elegant creation captured the essence of the family’s philosophy: simplicity, purity of flavor, and a touch of acidity. The dish’s enduring popularity speaks volumes about its timeless appeal, demonstrating how simplicity can truly elevate a culinary masterpiece.
Maison Troisgros continues to evolve, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation. While the restaurant has moved to a new location, the essence of its spirit remains unchanged. The Troisgros family’s commitment to culinary excellence has shaped their journey, inspiring generations of chefs and food lovers alike. Their story is a reminder that the best culinary experiences are often rooted in family, tradition, and a relentless pursuit of perfection.
