Let’s be honest, sometimes we food and wine journalists are so busy writing articles that we don’t even feel like eating out, much less searching for hidden culinary treasures. It’s almost like we’re in a newsroom bubble, focused only on deadlines. But some restaurants seem to thrive on anonymity, almost reveling in their obscurity. Tanuki, an excellent izakaya in the Ostiense neighborhood, is one such place. We’re finally sharing it with you, after a long delay due to the reasons mentioned above.
A Restaurant That Shuns the Spotlight
Located at Via del Gazometro 36, Tanuki is nearly invisible except for an unlit lantern. You might easily miss it if you’re not looking for it. In an era of overexposed restaurants, their desire to blend in is intriguing. When asked why they don’t make themselves more visible, Andrea Liguori, one of the four co-owners, explained that they considered a more prominent sign but were overwhelmed by the events since their opening in February 2020. Tanuki opened just before the pandemic, closing temporarily shortly after. This experience may have made them hesitant to draw attention.
A Team of Passionate Owners and a Lucky Name
Despite the challenges, Tanuki has managed to thrive, thanks to the dedication of its owners and perhaps a little bit of good luck. Their name, Tanuki, means “raccoon dog” in Japanese, a mythical creature associated with fertility, abundance, luck, and sake! The team includes Andrea Liguori, Daniele Gennaro, Umberto Mottini, and Yasuyuki Morishita, who also co-owns the adjacent Sakana Sushi. Morishita is responsible for creating the menu, drawing inspiration from family traditions and his mother’s teachings in Okinawa.
A Space for All
Tanuki’s menu caters to diverse tastes and schedules, and the restaurant is designed to accommodate a variety of guests. There’s a bar counter with stools for quick drinks and a few tables for a casual aperitivo or dinner. But the real gem is the smaller, intimate dining area with four tables for four, which can be divided for privacy using bamboo curtains. The panels beside the tables can be adjusted to create more space, making this room surprisingly functional despite its size.
Flavors of Japan
Tanuki’s menu is a delicious journey through Japanese cuisine. For drinks, they offer classic Japanese-inspired aperitifs like the yozumun spritz with yuzu liqueur or Tanuki’s Negroni, made with etsu gin, campari, and barbera chinata. These cocktails pair beautifully with small bites like yakitori. We highly recommend the uzura bacon (quail eggs wrapped in bacon), tori kawa (chicken skin skewer), and tsukune (chicken meatballs). For a more substantial meal, there are delicious meat and vegetable gyoza, essential tempura, and at least three “aghemono” (fried dishes), like tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet with panko). In summer, they serve udon with cold broth, as well as several yaki udon dishes with meat, fish, or vegetables.
Don’t miss the daily specials board for unique items like breaded tuna bao, eel tempura, and okonomiyaki. Whether you’re looking for a quick aperitivo or a full dinner, Tanuki offers a welcoming, relaxed atmosphere.
A Touch of Tradition and Innovation
While the food at Tanuki is generally exceptional, one dish stands out as a little out of place: the tempura zucchini flowers stuffed with cacio e pepe cream. It’s a nod to Roman cuisine, but in an izakaya of this caliber, it feels a bit unnecessary. However, this is just our opinion, and the chef is free to ignore it if they wish.
Sake and Spirits
The drinks menu at Tanuki features over 40 types of sake, carefully curated by Andrea Liguori. They also offer Japanese cocktails and spirits. Prices are reasonable, with a dinner costing around €40, excluding drinks.
In conclusion, Tanuki is a hidden gem in Ostiense, a restaurant that thrives on understated charm and delicious food. The owners are passionate about their craft, and their dedication shines through in every dish. If you’re looking for an authentic Japanese experience, look no further than Tanuki. Don’t be fooled by its unassuming exterior; this is a restaurant that deserves to be discovered.
