Yanaka Cemetery, nestled in the Yanaka district of Tokyo, is a far cry from your typical graveyard. Imagine a serene park, overflowing with lush greenery, where cherry blossoms paint the air with their delicate fragrance in spring. This breathtaking scene is just one of the many charms that await visitors at Yanaka.
A Place of Tranquility and Beauty
The cemetery sprawls across 10 hectares (25 acres), a vast space filled with an enchanting mix of ancient and modern graves. Towering trees, fragrant shrubs, and meticulously kept gardens dot the landscape. Even the decrepit areas exude a unique kind of beauty, a testament to the passage of time and the natural world’s embrace.
As you wander along the stone paths, you’ll feel a sense of peace settle over you, a feeling that extends beyond the cemetery’s borders, enveloping the entire Yanaka district. This is a place where you can truly escape the hustle and bustle of city life and find solace amidst the tranquility.
A Unique and Historical Site
Yanaka Cemetery holds a special place in Japanese history. It was once the final resting place for the Tennoji Temple, a significant Buddhist temple in the area. The famous Sakura-dori (“Cherry Blossom Lane”) was the main pathway leading to the temple, a testament to the vibrant history of this location.
However, in 1872, the Japanese government, driven by a nationalistic agenda, took control of the cemetery, marking a turning point in its history. This was part of a broader policy to promote Shinto religion over Buddhism, which resulted in the separation of the two faiths.
The largest cemetery in Japan at the time, Yanaka became a public space, its name evolving from “Yanaka Bochi” (“Yanaka Graveyard”) to the more poetic “Yanaka Reien” (“Yanaka Spirit Park”) in 1935.
Secrets and Ghosts of the Past
The remnants of a five-story pagoda built by Tennoji Temple in 1908 still stand along Cherry Blossom Lane. Although now only a fenced-off slab of overgrown granite, its tragic history lives on. In 1957, two lovers met their demise in a tragic suicide pact, setting the pagoda ablaze.
And while the ghosts of those long-gone lovers might linger, other spectral figures also haunt the cemetery. Visitors with a keen ear might catch whispers of the crowds that once flocked to Tennoji Temple for its public lotteries.
A Resting Place for the Famous and the Forgotten
Yanaka Cemetery is the final resting place for countless individuals who have left their mark on Japanese history. Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the last shogun of Japan, rests in a grand, fenced-off section.
Among the other famous figures buried here are scholars, artists, artisans, poets, authors, scientists, singers, sportsmen, actors, politicians, and military heroes. Ichiyo Higuchi, a renowned novelist who graces the 5,000 yen note, is also laid to rest within its grounds.
Finding Yanaka Cemetery
Getting to Yanaka Cemetery is as simple as taking a three-minute walk from the South Exit of JR Nippori Station, passing Tennoji Temple along the way. This serene haven awaits those who seek a moment of peace amidst the city’s chaos, a place to reflect on the passage of time and the enduring nature of life itself.
