Imagine this: you’re paddling through the bustling heart of Tokyo, not on a crowded street, but on a serene canal, with a cityscape of towering skyscrapers reflected in the water. This is Tokyo’s hidden side, a secret world of canals and rivers that reveal a different facet of the city, one steeped in history and quiet beauty.
I recently discovered this side of Tokyo, alongside Evis, a black and white English setter who, much to my surprise, was not thrilled about the idea of kayaking. I was on a kayaking tour with Tokyo Great Kayaking Tour, a company that also offers cycling tours. The tour took us along high-banked canals, under flyovers, past fishing boats and apartment blocks.
From the Water: A New Perspective on Tokyo
We started our adventure in the business district of Kayabacho, with Yukiko Koezuka, the owner of the tour company, leading the way. The warm Tokyo air felt good on my face, and Evis, after a few moments of initial hesitation, settled into the lap of her Japanese owner, Tak. As we paddled, she looked out at the sights with curious eyes, her black and white fur glistening in the sunlight.
Yukiko explained that this was their first time having a dog on board, and Evis seemed to be enjoying the novelty of it all. She stood at the front of the kayak, like a figurehead on a ship, her ears perked up at every sound. “From the canals and rivers,” Yukiko said, “Tokyo looks very different.” She pointed to the iconic Tokyo Skytree, the tallest building in the city, which stood tall and proud against the skyline.
A Journey Through History
We navigated the busy Sumida River, a contrast to the calmer canals, dodging water buses, tourist cruises and fishing boats. The river buzzed with activity, its wakes rocking our kayaks as we paddled across. As we returned to the calmer canals, we saw jellyfish drifting by, one after another, a reminder of the city’s aquatic life.
“We like jellyfish,” Yukiko laughed, “but not from this river: too dirty.”
The city’s canals are a testament to its history. Yukiko explained that Tokyo, once known as Edo, was a city built on canals, a vital part of its transportation system during the Edo period. The canals connected the sea to the town and Edo Castle, transporting people, food, and materials. Many of these canals have been covered or filled in over time, but their presence lingers in the city’s landscape.
A City of Contrasts
Our journey took us through Koto, a middle-class residential area where the water was cleaner. Kosuke Moriwaki, our kayaking guide, explained that the river can sometimes have a strong odour, and that at the end of the day, our clothes would definitely smell like it.
“Being in kayaks,” Kosuke added, “is like a behind-the-scenes tour. You see how the city works, its water infrastructure, its history.”
As we paddled along the Onagi, a man-made canal, we saw herons perched on the banks, cormorants bobbing in the water, and men and boys fishing from the banks. The scenery was a delightful mix of the natural and the man-made, a testament to Tokyo’s intricate blend of tradition and modernity.
A City of Wonder
After our kayaking adventure, I spent the afternoon exploring Yoyogi Park, a popular spot for couples getting married in traditional Japanese dress and tourists visiting the Meiji Shrine. Outside the park, I witnessed a scene straight out of a manga, with teenagers in a mix of goth, glam, and doll-look outfits posing for photos.
The next morning, I embarked on a walking tour with a local guide, Yuki Nomura. We ventured into the neon-filled “Electric City,” a haven for geeks and subcultures. The shops sold collectable animals in capsules, figurines from comics, and the latest craze, a cardboard box-man called Danboard.
We saw young women dressed as maids handing out leaflets for maid cafes, where men are treated like princes. We passed host bars, where young men with pop-star haircuts and tuxedos entertain women. And we saw a truck carrying two tall pink- and green-haired fembots, advertising the Robot Restaurant.
Tokyo is a city that defies expectations, a melting pot of tradition and modernity, of vibrant culture and technological advancements. It’s a city where you can encounter a dog on a kayak, a futuristic capsule-like cruise ship, and a cardboard box-man all in the same day.
And after exploring the city’s hidden waterways, its bustling streets, and its eccentric subcultures, I left with a renewed appreciation for Tokyo’s unique blend of history, modernity, and quirky charm.
