Welcome back to our Japanese drinking adventure! This is part 2 of our three-part series, exploring the diverse drinking scene of Ebisu. In the first part, we journeyed through Ginza’s sophisticated bars, but this time we venture into a different world: traditional sake and innovative cocktail lounges.
A Taste of Tradition: Fuon Sake Bar
Our first stop was a hidden gem: Fuon, a sake bar tucked away from the tourist traps. This bar, recommended by a Japanese friend, is not listed on popular travel guides, and its few TripAdvisor reviews are written in Japanese. This truly authentic experience is all about immersing yourself in the world of sake.
The sake master welcomes you with a personalized selection. Based on your preferences for sweet, strong, or sour flavors, he presents you with a curated set of four large bottles from his extensive collection. You then sample and choose your favorite, embarking on a journey of unique flavors. We savored novel blends, from the slightly carbonated and semi-dry “Kaze no Midori” to a funky, mildly fruity sake from Hokkaido.
Fuon is more than just a sake bar. To perfectly complement your drink, our friend suggested a “moriawase,” a selection of small plates. The delicious array included traditional skewers, fresh sashimi, and other izakaya-style snacks. While the handwritten Japanese menu might require some creative deciphering, the moriawase offers a delightful exploration of Japanese cuisine.
This intimate, underground bar embodies the spirit of traditional Ebisu. It’s a salaryman’s haven, a world away from the glamorous cocktail bars. It’s a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic Japanese drinking experience.
Exploring the Hipster Cocktail Scene: Bar Tram
Next, we ventured into the trendy world of Bar Tram, a “brother” bar to the equally acclaimed Bar Trench and the newer Bar TRIAD. Our guide was my brother-in-law, a fellow enthusiast who had encountered Hideaki Takemura, the bar manager, during a New York drinking escapade.
Bar Tram’s atmosphere is distinctly American, a throwback to the Prohibition era. The dark, seductive interiors transport you to a bygone age, while bartenders clad in 1920s vests and hats add to the mystique. A giant neon sign outside proclaims: “Bar Tram: Get Drunk Different” with “Elixir, Absinthe” emblazoned across it, a nod to their specialty.
Bar Tram is renowned for its extensive selection of absinthes and absinthe-based cocktails. The crowd is a mix of locals, enjoying the intimate atmosphere. Small groups of friends or couples gather on plush couches, sharing conversation and sips of absinthe flowing from ornate fountains.
Despite our previous day’s exploits, we were eager to experience the allure of Bar Tram. We agreed to limit ourselves to just one drink, choosing between a low-proof amaro sour and a rye and amaro cocktail, trying to resist the siren call of the green fairy. However, the allure of the bar’s ambience and the friendly atmosphere led us to indulge in more than we intended.
Our decision to visit Bar Tram was a stroke of luck. We were greeted by Hideaki-san himself, who invited us for a picture and then led us to a prime spot at the bar. We immersed ourselves in the lively atmosphere, engaging in conversation with locals and savoring the art of cocktail creation.
Driven by our curiosity for smoky flavors, we requested a peaty and smokey drink. Hideaki-san presented us with a unique concoction, a Black Manhattan-inspired creation, featuring Laphroaig, Amaro Averna, and a dash of bitters. This surprising combination, while unexpected, was a revelation – the perfect balance of smoky and sweet. I’ve recreated the cocktail since returning home, enjoying its simplicity and exquisite flavor.
A Tour of Bar TRIAD and the Orient Express-Inspired Cocktails
As we delved deeper into the world of Bar Tram’s absinthes, Hideaki-san suggested we visit Bar TRIAD, their newest establishment. We made a half-hearted promise to visit, knowing full well our intentions were to head home and sleep off the night’s indulgences.
True to the bar’s exceptional service, Hideaki-san personally walked us over to Bar TRIAD, introducing us to the bartenders and giving us a tour of the three-floor space. We settled in at the bar, intrigued by their new Orient Express-themed menus. The allure of the “Who is the Murderer?” cocktail, with its complex blend of Glenlivet 12y, Campari, Earl Gray Tea, Punt e mes, Suze, Underberg, Sea Salt, and All Spice, was too tempting to resist. We also indulged in a Wilder Julep, a refreshing combination of mint and chamomile.
The Murderer proved to be a bit too complex, while the Julep had a touch too much sweetness. However, the overall impression of Bar TRIAD was positive. The experimental spirit and passion for creating unique cocktails were evident. We had a lengthy conversation with the knowledgeable bartenders, eager to see how this new bar develops its identity.
Ebisu is a vibrant hub for both traditional and innovative drinking experiences. From the intimate world of Fuon to the sleek sophistication of Bar Tram and the experimental energy of Bar TRIAD, Ebisu offers a unique perspective on Japanese drinking culture. Don’t miss out on these hidden gems – they’ll leave you with unforgettable memories and a newfound appreciation for the art of the drink.
